Better Late Than Never (Ehem.)

Ok. So back in January of last year and before embarking on this journey called Peace Corps Paraguay, I was teetering with the decision of whether or not to start a blog. I told myself if I do, I have to do it right—-meaning on top of writing only detail-driven posts, I would also do so consistently. I was determined to not start off on fire recording every crucial happening, only to have it all fizzle away due to forgetfulness or worse, lack of motivation. And when reminded of the difficulty of keeping up such a task I simply shrugged, internally convinced “Ensene en Otro País” would be an exception. Fast forward to the present and over 7 months since my latest entry (ehem, lol). It is now that I realize how very high I set the bar for myself. True, in part I have failed my goal, but in my defense I was naïve in thinking my adventures here would be few and therefore oh-so-easy to document. In reality, it has been quite the opposite and I simply became overwhelmed and yes I’ll admit, overambitious. Somewhere along the way, I believe I also made a mistake when electing to write down only the “grand” events I come across, while the daily encounters matter just as much and are equally as comical/thrilling. (For the moment, just take my word for it, lol). With all of this being said, I want to start by thanking those who have supported me through and through to continue on this extraordinary experience. As a result, you all have encouraged me to seek more stories and inspired me to share them all the more. Next, I want to apologize for suspending the specifics of the “bueno”, the “malo”, and the “feo” (the good, the bad, and the ugly) that have occurred since last April up until recently. It was not intentional and from now on, I vow to do better. Lastly, and to prove just how remorseful I really am, I’ve compiled an outline of all that has been withheld. I hope you all will find my apology to be acceptable and although I plan not to (for real this time) feel free to send me fussy reminders, complaints, and criticisms if I happen to fall off the wagon, again. I will both embrace and appreciate the comments and will promptly snap back into it. So, until next (summer) time (Ha, just kidding), enjoy what you’ve missed below, but don’t fret I do plan to write again soon (before the end of my service, ha. Again, kidding). Seriously, catch up and enjoy! J   

May 2011

-(2^nd) Moving On: Paola D. and her family took me into their home where I felt happier (and much more welcome). I am forever grateful that they allowed me to do so and am very close with the family til this day. I consider Paola to be a dear friend and look to her mother Gladys for advice often. She is still the one of the funniest Paraguayans I know. Just so you have an idea, here is one of my favorite stories: I was having terrible stomach issues one day and was basically on and off the toilet all morning (hey, it happens). Around lunchtime, Gladys asked me how I was feeling. I think I mumbled something about being alright and not being very hungry with which she replied “Are you sure you don’t want to eat something? We could set up a table by the bathroom for you, so you could eat something and not have to run as far”. Ha, and all I could do was laugh, what choice did I have?

-(13^th-14^th) Bicentenario: Paraguayan Independence Day—this year marked 200 years of freedom! HUGE celebration held across all of Paraguay. Cities exploded with red, white, and blue decorations. Schools painted murals, fireworks were set off (more than usual), and the parades were endless.

-(14^th) Mariel’s Quince: I promised I would return, plus it would be my first Quince experience ever, so I went to Caacupe where the eldest daughter of the carpenter family was turning 15. The festivities were supposed to begin at 8pm but started around 11pm (it is Paraguay, after all) and included strong strobe lights, 2 mariachi bands, a wardrobe change and a father-daughter dance. Oh, and the opening of presents was post guest departure so I believe the party officially ended at the stroke of dawn, lol. (But seriously).

June 2011

(1^st) Site Presentation: Not knowing what to expect from Peace Corps nor how “formal” the set-up needed to be, I stressed and stressed over organizing the invites, the snacks, the invitees, my speech, etc. (Paola and her mom were both nice enough to help me). The whole thing turned out to be very simple: A representative from Peace Corps came to Isla to explain to community members more about the program, as well as, my field of expertise and my job description as a volunteer and to my relief and surprise it was all over in an hour.

(June 5^th-19^th) Home Improvements: I started the long process of making my future house a home. I painted, bought furniture and appliances, and got permission to move in early (despite the 3-month with a host family rule).

(June 20^th) Homeowner (sort-of): I officially moved out and into my first (rented) home. One of Paola’s cousins came over to help me deep clean and a hummingbird flew inside to christen things (which is considered very good luck here). J

(June 26^th-July 2^nd) Learn Serve: consisted of a group of high-school students from Washington D.C. who came to Paraguay (Isla included) to do volunteer work. It is because of them that I got to move in early, as I had to find host families for each of them (my own home was offered and used as well). By the end of the week we painted a world map at the local soup kitchen, completed better hygiene demos with kids, and made library books for one of the schools. It was a tiresome, yet rewarding week.

July 2011

(July 4^th Weekend) Went to the movies and found Oreo cheesecake!

(July 19^th) Sorpresa!: My Caacupe family surprised me with a visit. Everyone but ”Dad” came. I made them homemade pizza for lunch and afterwards we went to relax and check out the big plaza in the Centro of Isla.

August 2011

(August 15^th) Picnic: Since I deemed it perfect “picnic” weather, I convinced Paola, David, and Nacho to join me in an American-style picnic (different from a Paraguayan one which consists of dancing and limited foods you have to buy if you’re hungry!). We layed out a blanket underneath a giant tree and had sandwiches and finger foods. We also played cards and charades while a baby cow looked on. There were even some boys flying a kite nearby!

(August 27^th) Frutillas: I met up with Rose and Nana in Capiata where their friend’s sister provided us with lunch and an amazing chocolate cake for dessert. Our gracious host then drove us to the next city over called Aregua where a strawberry expo is held every year. I sampled strawberry cake and wine, along with a chocolate-covered 

strawberry and not to mention the best strawberry ice cream of my life! 

September 2011

(Sept.12^th-15^th) IST/PDM: My G-mates and I were required to go through some training along with a contact from our communities. I invited Bernarda the Librarian/Support teacher from the Escuelita and the Directora (Principal) decided she wanted to tag along as well. It was nice to see everyone and I was happy to have the spur-of-the-moment discussion on diversity as a group, but as for the extra clarity of our job descriptions I was hoping for, it didn’t happen. :/

(September 21^st) USA: David, one of my faithful English students got the opportunity to go to the other America for 3 weeks since he applied to the Youth Ambassadors program and got in! It was a very exciting time for him and I was happy to be a part of it. We spent an entire session before he left making a list of foods he could NOT leave America without trying, lol. Also, the very same day my other good friend and man of many tricks, Jose called me from the airport telling me he was also headed to the U.S. The two were on the same flight and I had to stifle my slight jealousy of them going to my country, while I stayed behind in theirs, ha.

October 2011

-(October 7^th-9^th) Pilar: I made my first trip to visit Rose in Pilar. Rosa, my host mom from Guarambare had never been either and insisted on going too. I couldn’t argue. We had a chill (and rainy) weekend cooking good food, napping, and going for ice cream. We also wanted to tour the famous Pilar Fabric Factory, but it was closed.

-(October 13^th) Back Again: David returned from his journey bearing pictures and gifts (Rice Krispies and cranberry sauce from him, and a bottle of maple syrup from Learn Serve). He was also full of stories, which I thoroughly enjoyed hearing and found comical. He got to touch snow for the first time, see an American football and baseball game, and witness a few Americans gag drinking terere, ha.

-(October 22^nd) Ziplining: Rose (being the super-planner she is) heard about this place called Mbatovi and organized a trip for us all. About 15 of us, paid 130mil (roughly 35 bucks) to walk a tightrope course, zipline through a jungle, and repel down the side of a rock wall. It was thrilling and terrifying at the same time, but we all had a blast!

November 2011

(November 18th) Team Edward: So if you didn’t know already I am a HUGE Twilight fan (thanks to Coco J). So, when I found out Breaking Dawn was coming here back in August, I not only announced it to the world, I also told Rose I was going to go see it-with or without her, lol. We went to see it opening night and it was well worth the wait. It was also interesting to see how Paraguayans reacted. I think it’s safe to say Jacob (Taylor Lautner) got just as many cries of “Marry me!” and “Oh My God!” as he would have if I’d seen the movie in U.S. theaters, ha.

(November 24^th) Thanksgiving: Rose and I planned out a kick-butt menu back in September and brought it to life on my favorite holiday! We invited fellow volunteers, as well as, some local friends to join us. It ended up being an intimate event with just 5 of us in all, but I wouldn’t have had it any other way. We laughed, shared memories, and were 
thankful for each others’ company (and the food, of course!) 

(November 30^th) Fin: School ended officially for the year. I wrapped up my projects, said goodbye to the students, and said hello to a very long (and well deserved) vacation!

December 2011
(December 7th) Walk This Way: For religious beliefs on this day Paraguayans leave their homes (some as early as December 1st) and begin what's called the "Walk to Caacupe". I decided to make the journey myself for the experience beginning in neighboring town Eusebio Ayala. One thunderstorm, 2 bathroom breaks, 4 hours, and 15 miles later I made it. Talk about an exhausting adventure!

(December 17^th) Paola’s Colacion: Post-Graduation, it is tradition here (naturally) to have a big party to end on. Tables at the event space have to be selected and guarded beginning at 5am and later loaded with food for all the guests (I contributed a small dessert). A very formal dress has to be selected for all the girls with the guys in their best suits. And of course, there has to be multiple DJs’ for a fiesta that has no end, right? Think Quince meets Prom and you get the picture.

(December 21^st-Jan. 3^rd) ATL: I took a taxi with fellow volunteer Jaime (who also happens to be my neighbor) to the airport where we waited to board the plane to Panama. From there, we had a small lay over and almost fainted at the sight of a Cinnabon (followed by a temporary comatose from devouring one lol). We boarded again headed to Miami where we hugged before parting ways. After 15 hours of flying total, I finally arrived in home sweet home. I shrieked and called my youngest sister a “giant” upon seeing a much taller version of her than I remembered in baggage claim. I also gave my grandfather the biggest bear hug imaginable. I was then whisked off to my homecoming and first meal: pizza and wings. It was a glorious and much needed vacation and re-energizer. I shopped, spent coveted quality time with family and friends, showed them how to drink mate, gained 10 pounds and was exhausted by the end of it all, but I don’t regret a single minute. J

January 2012

(January 13^th) Cumpleaños Feliz: Rose and I met up in the city where we went for an awesome lunch at one of our favorite places called Bolsi Bar. Afterwards, we went and walked around the mall and decided to catch “New Year’s Eve” at the movies. We ended the night with our all-time favorite Mexican place, Ajua! Where I was serenated in Spanish (birthday) song and given a slice of free dessert. It was a sophisticated and relaxing day for the occasion of my 25^th J

Semana Santa (Chipa Week)

4/19/2011

Maybe it’s me but it seems like Mondays have a tendency to come with bad news. I dread the day myself and I suppose Paraguayans do as well since the day is often referred to as “Lune ro“ (Jopara for “bitter Monday”)... I couldn’t agree more.  So, on the afternoon of Monday April 18^th, 2011 G-35 Education sector received some crushing news. Our APCD (Assistant Peace Corps Director) Josefina was unexpectedly terminated from her employment with Peace Corps. We were informed via text message and later email, but neither provided little explanation. To make things odder, Rose and I had just visited the office that same morning and spoke with her. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary and from what we understand she was totally blind-sided. Timing couldn’t have been poorer as we had all grown to know and care for Josefina throughout training (she aided greatly in our site selection process); not to mention the majority of us were looking forward to the comfort of her company during our upcoming site presentations. And who was to replace her? There was no one prepared to step forward and take over her significant position. I personally thought the mass text was a horrible prank of some sort, but it turned out to be accurate. Through word of mouth I was told she was devastated, naturally and obviously confused as well. Clearly she and Peace Corps butted heads on a few ideas, but I suppose a mutual agreement was never reached. Yet since there are two sides to every story, I am interested in Peace Corps’ version being voiced one day, but neither I nor my colleagues will get our hopes up for such an occurrence. Nevertheless, Josefina shall be greatly missed and we appreciate everything she has done for us. To demonstrate as such, a farewell luncheon was organized in her honor on Tuesday April 19^th, 2011. The entire Education sector and each “G” were invited to attend and wish Josefina the best. Despite our hectic schedules to be in site on the very same day, some of my fellow group members (myself included) managed to stop by. I only stayed for about 30 minutes or so as it was raining and I was to meet Jamie (a Health volunteer who lives in the next town cover) at the terminal to travel to our sites together. It was just enough time to write a quick note to Josefina in the journal that circulated the table, get an earful of more details, and order a gelato to-go. “Suerte” echoed behind me as I pushed open the glass door to exit. With my pesado (heavy) bags at hand, I walked to the nearest bus stop and caught a ride. Within half an hour or so, I was pushing the timbre (bell) to cue the chofer (driver) I wanted to depart. I got off and crossed the street where I wandered aimlessly on the phone for 10 minutes trying to find my travel buddy. I finally found her with relief on the 2^nd floor of the three-story building. We exchanged a quick, friendly greeting then took turns making a run to the bathroom before our long expedition. Afterwards, we gathered up our *dead-giveaway belongings and headed down to the bottom level designated for boarding to wait for our bus, “Caraguatay”. *FACT: According to 9 out of 10 Paraguayans, enormous backpack=North American. This being our first terminal experience, Jamie and I were not expectant of numerous waiting spots (literally). We ended up having to ask exactly which number lot our bus would be pulling into. Once we were pointed in the right direction, our bags were kindly taken over by a nice gentleman who stuffed them haphazardly in the storage compartment on the side of the bus. We then proceeded to board the bus and sat in the back, presuming it would be less cramped. Although not many passengers entered alongside Jamie and I, we chose wisely with our seating arrangement as at each stop more and more people jumped on. I definitely felt more at ease with the extra space, and Jamie as well since she nodded off soon after.      As for me on the other hand, paranoia prevented me from joining in on naptime, despite my exhaustion. FACT: Theft is the most common crime in PY (especially on the buses), hence my extreme attentiveness.  I also decided it was a good idea to pay close attention to neighboring town names and landmarks for future trips to and from the city. Surprisingly, I recognized more than I thought because after passing through Caacupe then Eusebio Ayala, I knew the town of my future home was next. Soon enough, a towering “Bienvenidos” (welcome) sign was visible as we approached the threshold of Isla Pucu. I collected my possessions once more, bid adieu to Jamie, and reminded the chauffer’s assistant (job consisting of: collecting bus fare as needed, but usually just fetching and drinking teree with the driver) I needed access to the side cabin in order to retrieve the rest of my gear. Once we rolled to a stop, I stepped off and my stuff was handed to me almost simultaneously. I was still strapping my bag securely onto my back while the bus hauled away to its next destination. I took in both my surroundings and a deep breath at the same time, squinting for something familiar. Haziness combined with my poor sense of direction resulted in me becoming somewhat lost, and the plentiful pairs of eyes that scrutinized my every move certainly did not aid in the matter. Embarrassed, I took out my cell and anxiously dialed Lida´s number for help. No answer.  I glanced down at my watch and hesitated at the possibility of him being in class, but sent a text to David anyway. No response neither, thus resulting in slight panic on my behalf. I quickly regained composure and made up my mind to walk towards the only residence memory would allow me to recall, Paola´s. Fortunately, she was present as I explained my weariness and confusion of which she was instantly kind and sympathetic. Apparently my ability to recollect wasn´t so poor after all, as I was informed my new host family lives within a 2 block radius north of Paola and her family. We were preparing to walk towards this direction when David´s lanky profile came into view. He met us at the end of the block, grinning from ear to ear as always. Not long after greeting one another it seemed, we parted ways once again. I made sure to thank Paola for her gracious support then turned to follow David´s lead. Along the way, David clarified he knew where to find me because one of his classmates recognized me and sent him a message. I described for the second time my bewilderment upon arrival in Isla, as well as, my fatigue. David too was nonchalant about the topic and promptly reminded me I already had friends here, thus no need to fret. As we rounded the corner I couldn´t help but smile with him while verbalizing my gratitude as well. When we finally reached the gate of my new home, we were welcomed by Lida´s sister, Irma, Irma´s two young daughters and Lida herself along with her 8 month old daughter.  I was unaware my previous visit, but I soon learned that Irma also happens to be David´s madrina (Godmother). David stayed for a little while longer to both visit with his Godmother and to make sure I was somewhat settled in. Afterwards he left, suggesting we get together the next day. I instantly agreed and thanked David again as well. Next I was told for some unknown reason, the room I was to inhabit wasn´t prepared for me yet. I only nodded, no questions asked but I was also promised to be helped in setting it up the next day. So, I ended up crashing in the room temporarily shared by Lida´s two nieces. I went to bed that night with the thought that living with this family was going to be interesting and possibly a little challenging, but unbearable? I naively shook the idea off completely….

Here are a few events that came to pass directly and indirectly during my short-lived stay with Lida and her family:

My bedroom window has a hole about the size of a pill bottle cap or voting sticker. Index fingers (attached to Lida´s nieces) being poked through it became a daily happening…no matter the obstruction I attempted to conceal it. I actually think they genuinely enjoyed seeing and later destroying whatever I could come up with next. There was also a caravan of ants constantly flowing to and from this hole.

-I believe my lovely partial abode was added on after the rest of the house was built, as there was only one door to enter and exit. This became both a blessing and a curse: a blessing as I had a secluded sanctuary (for the most part) and a curse for the very same reason. On more than one occasion I found myself unable to gain access to the interior of the house (aka the bathroom, 3am) or to the house itself (front gate locked, 8pm bedtime.. apparently I was both misinformed and forgotten). And each time I attempted to contact someone on the inside they failed me, yet Lida´s brother, Bernardo, residing next door always came to my aid. He was the one who answered my calls to Lida´s cellular which was purposely or accidentally (I´ll never know) left there. Bernardo was also the one whom let me use his bathroom and attempted (unsuccessfully) to wake Josefina up for me by whispering, then yelling at her to wake up through her bedroom window.

-Speaking of the baño (bathroom) and I, we had a love/ hate relationship. I loved it because the ducha (shower) provided the first few hot showers I had yet to have in Paraguay. I also hated it because it these hot showers lasted about 2 minutes as I had to fight off mosquitoes in between scrubs. Not to the mention, it usually reeked of used adult diapers….may be a little harsh but it´s true:/

-These diapers belonged to Lida´s 92 year old father. This Señor may have been wheel-chair bound and on a soft-foods diet, but he was still very humorous and attentive. After eating he liked to feed the dog in his own special way…swishing around the leftovers in his mouth and then discarding them on the floor. He also never ceased to attempt cleaning his mouth with the kitchen tablecloth, even though we all knew (and him as well I suspect) that a slap on the hand from his wife to stop him would follow. 

-Josefina, wife to this Señor and mother to Lida, Irma and Bernardo, was a character herself. My most cherished memories of this family involve her. I believe she can be summed up in three words sly, resourceful, and blunt. During my first attempt to cook soja (soy), Josefina slipped a spoonful of salt in the water when she thought I wasn´t looking and after I had already stated I would add it later. She also cunningly insulted my intelligence a little by communicating with me in baby talk for the first 3 days. Nonetheless, I found her to be resourceful as well because during the tidying up of my new room, she also rearranged 4 mil from off my bed to her right pocket. In addition she creatively re-named her chewable cigar and her wine as her ¨chocolate stick & water¨. Lastly, Josefina wasn´t afraid to say what she was thinking or express her true feelings. One time I was invited to eat lunch with another family, after notifying my host grandmother, she put her hands up to her face and fake cried. This action signified her feelings were hurt and even though she said ¨esta bien¨ (it´s ok), she really wasn´t pleased. Another time we were standing in the kitchen and she began patting me on the back. Her hand continued moving further downward until she reached my love handle. She then pinched it while exclaiming with a grin of astonishment ¨Ooooh, so that´s why you don´t eat meat. You carry yours with you!¨ As for the chipa that just so happened to be in my hand at that very moment, it found it´s way to the trash and I lost my appetite for the rest of the night. Oh Josefina!

-Did I fail to mention the petting zoo?, whoops! You all know how much I love me some animals, allergy or no allergy! Lol. My new family also included 2 dogs one of which I felt pretty certain was sick, because one night I swore I saw one of it´s eyeballs dangling from the socket through the chain link fence. I shared this observation with one Zena (one of Lida´s nieces) and she laughed at me. A couple days later, I witnessed the dog being wrapped up in an old tarp, stiff as a board. Apparently, he was infected with a Bot fly, go figure. Also present on the property were: a calf, a bunny, a talking bird named chancho (hotdog) who could creepily utter ¨Mama¨, and about 30 or so chickens, but hey who´s counting, right? However, my personal favorite was Bernardo´s horse who technically lived next door, but was often tied up in Josefina´s yard. One morning I witnessed Bernardo attaching at least 20 pounds of decorations to this horse. I asked him for what purpose was he dressing up the stallion and he replied it was for a rodeo and I could attend if too if I so desired. Shortly after David talked me out of going saying it wouldn´t be much to see since it simply entails people dressed up like cow folk and riding around in circles. Lol.  

Yes. All of this excitement took place within one week and not just any week either, Semana Santa (Saint Week). Traditionally, it´s told Semana Santa is special time allotted for family (no school or work), extra good behavior, and chipa being made and shared inside and out of every home. I learned chipa is not only a food unique to Paraguay; it can also last many days without refrigeration. Thus, explaining why the practice of making it is still carried on today just as it was in the olden days. It was also during this week that I discovered even more change was stolen deliberately from my room, while I made a quick run to the kitchen. And despite all of this, I decided to stay but was later asked subtly to looking into relocating since it was simply too much trouble for me to be there…so much for that momentary ¨saintly¨ conduct, eh?

Bernardo's elaborately decorated horse & a hungry chicken 

Graduation (por fin)

4/15/2011

After returning from site visits on Monday April 11^th, 2011 we received both good and bad news. The good news was despite her busy schedule, Paraguay’s Minister of Health really wanted to come to our swear-in ceremony to support us. The bad news was in order for her to make it the original hour of commencement of 10am would have to be moved up to 8am, thus resulting in us having to wake up at 5am to be picked up. Most of us weren’t happy in the least bit, but we forced smiles and mumbled celebratory remarks. Of course the rest of the week flew by! On Tuesday there was a brindis (a toast or small goodbye ceremony) held at the language center for our host families. Later that same day Rose and I also baked a cake to personally thank my host mom for being so kind to us both. Wednesday was our last day at the Centro with all the volunteers of G-35. It was a very relaxing day with a picture slideshow, traditional dancing, and an absolutely gorgeous live harp/guitar performance. Thursday morning, we visited the Peace Corps office in Asuncion once more for another tour (as a refresher). Upon returning in the afternoon, Rose and I made sure to stop by “Franshop” one last time before parting ways to pack. We made a plan to meet up again in a couple of hours to re-locate Rose’s maletas (suitcases) from her house to mine. SIDE NOTE: Rose’s host family turned out to be not-so- nice :/ so I offered to let her crash at my house Thursday night and she took me up on it :). I asked my host mother if she minded but of course she was ecstatic, “Now I have 2 daughters!” she exclaimed with a huge grin. Both Rose and I were grateful she didn’t disapprove of the new plan of course, but unfortunately because Paraguayans are such gossip folk, my host mother flat out refused to help us transport the suitcases. “Van a pensar los vecinos?”  (What will the neighbors think?) she asked, obviously concerned about what it would look like for us to be loading suitcases from another house into the back of her Volkswagon Golf. I was slightly irritated by this, but I understood. It’s possible she could have rejected our proposal altogether. So 1 block, 30 minutes, and 4 hefty suitcases later we made it back to my house sweaty yet relieved. And as a final thank you gift to my host mom, we offered to make a pizza for dinner later. Next we hit the house and peluqueria (hair salon) of a classmate to get a little something done to my hair lol. I got it washed and straightened for a steal but of course by the time we left it was raining and who was umbrella-less? You guessed it…me. Rose and I speed-walked as quickly as we could back to my house then started preparing dinner once we arrived. About two hours later, we were done eating and dressed/ready for bed. I voiced my ultimate “Buenes Noches” (Goodnight) to both of my host family members, then walked across the hall to my room where Rose and I talked until we fell asleep. Only a couple of hours later it felt like, we were up again. We got dressed, made-up our make-up, and did some last minute baggage arranging. My host mom wished us both “Suerte” and we skipped rocks all the way to the church. SIDE NOTE: Most streets in Paraguay (besides the rutas) are cobblestone, so when it rains especially there are literally mini pools of water every few steps. AND IN CASE YOUR FORGOT  FACT: Most Paraguayans have motos, so it’s really only Peace Corps volunteers who come across this problem. To avoid these mud puddles, the best solutions are to a.) try find dry land alongside the roads or b.) to be an olympic hurdler. Oh yeah….and NOT wear heels or shoes you care about. Rose and I usually come prepared but this of course was an exception since we were not informed what the schedule would be like exactly (what a surprise.. Peace Corps giving out minimal information, right?). Therefore we had no choice but to travel in our best clothes as we were simply told to dress to impress. Surprisingly, we made it to our designated meeting spot with minor grim and managed to arrive on time (Rose and I were both infamous for our tardiness lol). In the drizzling rain, all 23 members of both Education barrios (communities) waited huddled together for our ride. A little while later the bus drove up. Altogether we climbed on and found a seat despite the lack of energy due to restlessness; excited chatter began enseguida (immediately) and everyone perked up. Along the way, a member from Barrio Alegre announced that out of sheer boredom the week before, she and another volunteer decided to make superlatives for each of us. I was awarded “Most Likely to Do PR for a Modista; Pizza Guru” and Rose received a well-earned “PY Mom Survivor; Cheesiest Volunteer”. Not long after we arrived at the Peace Corps office where we met up with the Health volunteers and all secured our valuables in the office of the Health Director. Next, we went through a security check (metal detection), were divided into smaller groups of 6-7, and then guided into vans arranged into a linear formation. I later found out this was because any multiple vehicles destined for the U.S. Embassy must be bumper to bumper and no other can pass in between for further safety precautions. About 10 minutes later, we pulled up in front of the embajada (embassy) front lawn and hopped out. By this time, it was also pouring down rain and we all became even more anxious to get started (and eat). The rain fell harder, followed by thunder/lightning and in a matter of minutes we had all raised our right hands and were no longer trainees. Despite the hideous weather, (the first swear-in ceremony in Paraguayan Peace Corps history to take place during a harsh thunderstorm) we carried on celebrating into the adjacent room munching on hors d’oeuvres and eagerly eyeing the legendary chocolate cake whose presence was (accurately) foretold by volunteers before us. Congratulatory pronouncements were exchanged and pictures were snapped with one another, as well as, alongside both American and Paraguayan representatives whom held different positions in the Peace Corps organization. After savoring dessert, the party fizzled down and since it was still dreadful outside we were graciously given rides back to the PC office. Based upon further instructions, we were not permitted to retreat to our hotels until after both a cell phone and bank card were in our possession. Internet capability was optional, but most of us acquired USB sticks in addition. We received cell phones within the hour, but the bank representatives didn’t show until around lunch time. After emailing family back in the U.S., I had the grand idea to camp out in front of the administrative office and ended up being the first person to get my PY plata (money; silver).Naturally, Rose was second and afterwards we caught a ride on the bus with an older volunteer who happened to be staying in the same hotel as us. Shortly thereafter we checked into the retro “Hotel Zephir” where we became familiar with the moth ball perfume, ancient elevator, and a moody toilet. Nonetheless, Rose and I were content enough to be having  air conditioning, hot water, and cable for a couple of days, but we did end up switching rooms due to the lavatory issue. Did I mention complimentary breakfast was also included? And the concierge was kind enough to hold onto to our key for us when we stepped out since all come standard with an antique doorknob permanently attached (just another part of the Zephir 70’s experience lol). Listed below are a few golden nuggets of happiness Rose and I stumbled upon within our 4-day leisure leave:

--Mexican food (black refried beans, margaritas, cheese dip)      
--Movie Theater (We saw “No Strings Attached”)    
--Italian Gelato (aka better than ice cream…Corb would die!)
--ATM (most places don’t accept debit cards)             
--Sweet Green (aka Cesar Salad & Key Lime Cookies)
---Argentinean Humorist (also bartender at local pub)
--Falafels (with hummus; I’ve become a fan)  
--Flea Market (I bought a beautiful handmade purse)   

      

Sound like a fun-filled and appetizing weekend? Oh, it was. We commemorated the long awaited occasion differently each day because por fin (finally) WE ARE OFFICIAL PEACE CORPS VOLUNTEERS which was and still is the perfect cause for celebration. J

Lindsey & I (representing for Isla Pucu!)

                                         

   12 members of Barrio Lazarito

                                   

                                       Rose & myself eating THE chocolate cake

                                      

                                               @ the movies :)

Apple Pie A La Mode (gelato on top)

My new favorite cookies!

My Superlative hehe :)

Guarambarepe'

4/9/2011

Rose, Rosa (host mom), myself & our cake

Flowers in my backyard

My last week in Guarambare I had mixed emotions.    I was excited to begin my new adventure as a volunteer in Isla Pucu and no longer be a trainee, yet I was sad to leave behind friends, teachers, and others who grew to care about me. For those who know me best, sometimes I have trouble putting my feelings into words, but I found this time to be an exception. While on an afternoon camanita (little walk) with Rose is when I first realized I felt this way. We were passing Don Alfredo, one of my friendly neighbors from across the street whom I came to know by his ambition to teach me some Guarani. “Hola Don Alfredo” I said. “Hola, de donde van?” (Where are you all going?) he asked. “ Vamos a un caminata, no mas”, (We’re only going on a little walk) I responded. Don Alfredo let out his jolly, booming laugh then pointed at Rose replying “Ah, porque ella es gorda, verdad?” (Oh, because she is fat, right?) ….Ok so a horrible start to my list of things I shall miss, I KNOW. Believe me I was equally as baffled as Rose because Don Alfredo himself is at least 12 months pregnant. “Why don’t you come along with us?” I wanted to ask lol, but I held my tongue. And most unfortunately for poor Rose she had to face this encounter many a time with her own host family, as well as, a few neighbors (she even told a lady off because she was so fed up once!) So to end things on such a sour note with Don Alfredo was most inopportune. In Rose’s defense though she is NOT fat by any means, her hips don’t lie that’s all :), and here curves aren’t as appreciated :/. In mention of my dear friend, I shall definitely miss her. Rose’s site is in a city called Pilar. I’ve heard it’s gorgeous and right on the border, take a ferry ride and you’re in Argentina…but it’s about 5 hours away from Isla Pucu. No longer will we be able to walk a block and hang out at my house, go get ice cream, or hit the Supermercado (grocery store) to buy ingredients for a homemade dish later. I’ll miss our post-class popcorn sessions, laughing together with/about our crazy host families, and of course receiving delicious free queso from the fabrica (factory; conveniently also were Rose lived). Speaking of host families, I shall miss my host mom and brother. My host brother was very shy at first, but he eventually came out of his shell some. Likewise, he was kind enough to allow me to use his laptop to Skype my family in the U.S. every Sunday. My host mother was very caring and knowledgeable. She could be a little pushy at times lol, but all in all she was very nice (she allowed me to hang a hammock in my room people!) I enjoyed joking with her most and savoring her creative vegetarian dishes. I will also miss our beautiful backyard overflowing with flowers and fruit trees with perfect view of the cancha (soccer field) on the other side (there were soccer games every SundayJ). Our language teachers Pabla, Silvia, and Patricia I will miss as well.  Not only were they amazing Spanish/Guarani teachers, they are also very kind, supportive, and loving people. I dreaded waking up so early, but I fell in love with their classes. If Peace Corps would allow me to pack one of them along in one of my suitcases, I would do it! And who could forget my favorite ice cream place, “Franshop”? I do believe they have the best dulce de leche (caramel) in PY! I was a weekly regular and each time the owner was so patient with my indecisiveness in regards to flavor selection. SIDE NOTE: I have a hard time making small decisions sometimes lol. A couple of times he even gave me a discount! I will miss all the animals that greeted us along the way to school each morning….goats, dogs, chickens, etc.  Specifically, I will miss the huge black/white dog that lived directly across the street from me. When I was bored, it was a very entertaining sight from my bedroom window watching it exercise back and forth outside its house. Near my house as well, I will miss my other neighbor Cristina who very much looked forward to chatting with me as did with her, along with her warm laughter. Furthermore, I will miss “Zoe Boutique” where I found a few much needed (stylish) warm clothes not too ridiculously priced. The young duena (owner) was also very kind (and patient) with me. I will miss the mini park in front of the Catholic igelsia (church) where it was so relaxing to sit to people watch during the day and enjoy the fountain at night. Lastly, I can’t say I’ll miss training itself exactly lol, but I will miss our trainers at the Peace Corps Centro (center) and catching up with my colleagues during our daily lunch gatherings. Guarambare was the first town to welcome us newbies of G-35 into Paraguay with open arms and for that it will forever hold a special place in my heart!

Best ice cream in Guarambare!

Friendly baby goat :)

Welcome sign at Centro

I knew it! My food schedule lol

Isla Pucu (Long Island)

4/6/2011

Our meeting site, CAFASA

My Site: Isla Pucu; My Department: Cordillera

All trainees look forward to and lose sleep over exactly 2 events: site assignments and swear-in. Most trainees began fretting about future site placements back during the Staging process in Miami, others more recently during training. Either way, I’m almost 90% sure every one of us has pondered the following feos (uglies) at some point... Ugly Question #1: Will I have hot water? (gasp) Uglier Question #2: Will I have electricity? (jaw drop) and the Ugliest Question of ALL: Will I have to live in the campo-campo?? (faint) On Tuesday April 29^th, 2011, we finally received the answers to these questions. Por suerte, hardly any of us aregoing to the campo (countryside) of Paraguay, everyone has electricity, and most of us have hot water. Specifically, the name of my future site is  Isla Pucu, which is Jopara (mix of Spanish and Guarani) for “Long Island”. On April Fool’s Day (although this was no joke), we were divided into 2 large groups and Peace Corps drove us to another city relatively close to our sites to meet our “ community contacts” aka a Paraguayan local designated to look out for us and of course sign Peace Corps paperwork as needed. My group and I were sent to a place called “CAFASA”, a giant very casual yet very business-like two story lugar (location)containing several conference rooms, a cafeteria, and a spacious yard. We all dumped our stuff in a secured room and were each given name tags. About 20 minutes or so later, our contacts filed out of one of the conference rooms also wearing name tags, but with our pictures adhered. I found my picture attached to a woman named “Bernarda”. She is both the Apoyo (support) teacher and the librarian at Isla Pucu’s local “escuelita”(little school). Next, carts of juice, fruit, and tortillas were rolled out for breakfast and everyone chatted while they ate. It wouldn’t be Peace Corps-appropriate without a series of informative yet boring presentations, hence this is what followed. Lunch came soon after though, along with more presentations. The afternoon ended on a high note with you guessed it….more food. ;) On our way out the door, bags of bread, cake, juice boxes, and more fruit were handed to us. The other trainees and I collected our back-breaking bookbags, wished each other “Suerte” (good luck), then parted ways with our new contacts. From Asuncion (capital of PY), my site is about 2.5 hours away; however, from CAFASA, it’s only about 1.5 hours. Side Note: PC volunteers are generally placed in either “follow-up” or new sites. Both can have their ups and downs. For example: follow-up sites-welcoming smiles and less staring (up), more pressure to prove yourself (down); new sites- more staring, less accustomed (down), nobody to be compared to (up). I was placed in a follow-up site where I will be the 3^rd volunteer. BTW:  It doesn’t matter how long ago a site had a PC volunteer, somebody always remembers something about them…..”Oh, he lived there”, “Yes, she had a dog”, “It’s true, he/she was very guapo/a (hardworking).” etc. Anyways, as added bonus to my sweet “Long Island” deal, I happened to be placed in the former site of the new Volunteer Coordinator, Lindsey. She of course is also a previous volunteer, but Peace Corps gave her the opportunity to stay and help out us Education folk for one more year. So not only did I have a personal escort during my site visit (she didn’t have to come but she did! ..super nice, right?), but now I have someone that can answer my questions directly and specifically (if necessary) who just so happens to work in the Peace Corps office :) Upon arrival in my new town, we stopped by Bernarda’s home to talk, drink terere’ (official drink of PY, like herbal iced tea) and eat roasted mani (peanuts) while waiting for Lida (Vice Principal of Escuelita) to come and meet us. Lida and her family consisting of 12 people were kind enough to take in a 13^th (me) for a couple of days despite their lack of space and my peculiar food choices as a vegetarian. They also offered to allow me to stay with them for my first month in site (PC rule: once again we’re supposed to live with a host family for our first 3 months). Since Lindsey chose to accompany me, we had lunch together everyday at her old and my future home. I was fortunate for this because those lunches were only time I was able to eat foods with some nutritional value (Lida and her family ended up serving me cocido (tea with milk) for breakfast and dinner three days, as well as, chipa (famous Paraguayan corn bagel) and mandio chyryry (mandioca is like a long potato and “chyryry” is Guarani for fried) my last two days but only because I requested them :/. Lindsey (God bless her) drug me around all over the town introducing me to everyone she knew and showing me important places. By the end of the trip I was exhausted, but very grateful. I learned my site contains 4 schools:  Escuelita, Escuela Grande (big school), “Santa Lucia” (new school), and a colegio (high school). There are also: 2 comedores (soup kitchens), a group of Boy Scouts, a Radio Station, and plenty of people who want to learn English. Lindsey worked on a one-on-one basis tutoring 3 high schools students: Paola (17), David (16), and Lourdes (16) who were also her closest friends. We didn’t have much free time, but the minute we did I seized the opportunity to find out where the best heladeria (ice cream shop) was located. FACT: Ice cream is my stress-reliever here in PY! All in all it was a very exciting, event-filled trip and I really enjoyed it. I am very much looking forward to working and residing in Long Island, hey who wouldn’t? :)

In front of the Isla Pucu Welcome sign

Striking Oil

3/30/2011

Today we had our second “Tapeopovo” (treasure hunt). The first one was neither exciting nor fun, which is why I chose not to dedicate an entire blog to writing much about it. Pretty much Peace Corps divided us into groups of two, gave us two places to visit along with a list of questions, and oh yeah, sent us out to find the answers alone…our 3^rd week in PY. However on a less-frustrating note, this time we were given a choice as to with whom we wanted to travel and more importantly, where we wanted to go. I was a little hesitant to go after just re-cooperating from a horrible 5-day virus (including 1.5 days in the city hospital L), but I decided to go since it was meant to be super “tranquilopa” (calm in Guarani). Of course I went with Rose and we chose to go in search of sandals and shirts at “Mariscal Lopez Shopping”. However, first we stopped at a bookstore near by to not seem entirely obvious about our craving for air conditioning. The name of the bookstore we visited was called “Books”, why the American name I’m not too sure; however, it’s possibly because of the giant selection of current best-sellers, cookbooks, travel guides, and children’s books in ENGLISH. Unfortunately, reading isn’t exactly a valued pastime here. Newspapers are a luxury and children’s leisurely reads are usually their textbooks (and that’s only if the schools have enough for each child, and/or trust them to take home and return- which most schools do not). Plus what kid in any country would want to read the book they study from everyday let alone enjoy reading it?  So naturally, book prices in general are ridiculous, new book prices are even more ridiculous, and new/current American book prices: forget about it! This store “Books” did claim to have a “oferta” (sale) section which consisted of books with missing or torn pages yet “40% off” still cost 30 G’s. Rose and I booked it (pun intended) on out of there pretty quickly, especially since the store clerk wasn’t particularly friendly nor patient with our questioning. Afterward, we headed across the street to Shopping Mariscal where we roamed each of the three floors. Before entering, Rose and I made a deal that she would go with me to get ice cream if I went with her to find real coffee. Almost immediately we stumbled upon a Starbucks-like coffee shop in the middle of the mall. Rose ordered an espresso and I simply rested while enjoying the scenery’s scents (I’m no caffeine feign but the aroma is soothing). Twenty minutes later or so, we skimmed the other two floors. No luck for me, but Rose did finally find some sandals she liked and bought although neither of us appreciated the salesladies’ stalker-like approach to helping us. Next, we found the food court and since we share a love of culinary creativity, naturally we decided upon “Belini’s”. This pasta bar consists of customers selecting from behind  glass between 4 types of pastas, pointing to up to 8 ingredients, stating either “red or white sauce” and chefs on the other side of the glass preparing the meal right before your eyes….in OLIVE OIL. Rose and I were in heaven! I crafted an alfredo-based dish, while Rose assembled a spicy marinara-based one and we both cleaned our bowls with the free dinner rolls. The portions were huge and the meal included a drink only cost 25 G’s total…no wonder the line extended through half the second floor! Whoever thought of this idea is a genius because Paraguayans love it just as much, and PY is rich in fresh fruits and veggies so who wouldn’t appreciate ingredients from their own soil? This meal was by far the BEST non-Paraguayan dish I’ve had since I’ve been here (Sorry SUGU, but you’re a close second). To top of the day, we found my ice cream shop and both indulged in some atypical flavors: peach for Rose, and reverse turtle tracks for me (caramel outside, solid chocolate cookie drops instead of turtles inside). SIDE NOTE: I know it seems that most of my really amazing days involve food lol, and this is true. BUT, you have to understand that when you’re in another country and you find something familiar, you cling to it without neither hesitation nor lack of enthusiasm, period. So judge not people, judge not lest you yourself decide to embark on a journey similar as mine J

Rose & I before our Asuncion Adventure!

Carpinteros in Caacupe

3/17/2011

Rose, Silvia (our language prof.) and myself

Trip Numero 2 is called ¨LFP¨ (Long Field Practice) and usually involves visiting yet another city or town in Paraguay BUT together with your language class and teacher. My class and I went to a city called Caacupe, which is a pretty big city. It´s located right along the ruta (highway) which has it´s ups and downs. For example: Easy access to Asuncion= Up; School on one side of the ruta, playground on other =Down. We met up with another volunteer named Alyssa who is going to swear-out (finish her 2 year service) this month. Our schedule pretty much consisted of either going to the local elementary school and reading a story with a different grade level or going to the colegio (local high school) to play a dinamica (dynamic game) with the students. We had a lot of fun, yet in the lower grades like kindergarten-2^nd most of the kids only spoke the local language (Guarani), so to communicate with them our language teacher had to step in. The trip in itself was a LOT of work. Before visiting the schools, our time was spent planning our lessons for the day, and after visitations our time was spent in language class. It was nice to have a change in setting for language class, but frustratingly enough the days were planned out to be just as long as if we were back at the training center. Also we all fell in love with the “carpintero” (carpenter ) family and were partly anxious to spend more  time with them. For each of these trips, the Peace Corps volunteer we go to visit must find a “host family” for us to stay with. Indeed these families are always reimbursed for our usage of food, water, and electricity yet sometimes it’s still not an appeasing offer for whatever reason. Por suerte (luckily), this particular group of woodworking families were kind enough to take us in for a few days, and they turned out to be THE nicest people I have yet to meet in PY. I ended up staying with Rueben and his family, Rose stayed with A and his family, and our other classmate stayed with the parents of these two men. SIDE NOTE: Of course our language teacher Silvia was put up in the city’s nicest hotel, despite her jokily telling those we encountered that she too was an American, specifically from Los Angeles). I was boarded up in a room with Rueben & Emmi’s 4 children: 3 daughters-Mari (butterfly ), Adi (+), Monica ($), and the only son- Abel (a bell ). Big families here are very common so to help me remember everyone’s names, I created a word/symbol for each person (as seen in parenthesis above).  As well there was Sandra, Emmi’s niece who hangs out a lot at the house and is clearly best friends with Mari, but doesn’t live with the family. Also roaming freely were two dogs, a puppy, a mama cat that gave birth to kittens in the backseat of the family’s idle Volkswagon and who could forget… “Abuela” This loving elderly woman and mother of Emmi, had a small apartment behind the family home and could consistently be found either busy making the sweetest Guava jelly you could ever imagine or insisting on conversing in Guarani with me. Adi (+) loved to pass us by while giggling “Grandma, she doesn’t understand you.”, and although she was right Abuela always shooed her away and carried on with our chat. I’ll admit I still have no idea til’ this day what we discussed lol, but I know it was surely pleasant because afterwards I was always given a big wet kiss on the forehead. On our final day in Caacupe, instead of the usual lunch with our families, we were instructed to pack the night before so that after visiting the schools one last time we could leave to have lunch in the city. I attempted unsuccessfully to have the plan changed so that we could enjoy one more lunch together with our families, but thankfully we were given some time for goodbyes. Abuela gave me another kiss for the road, as well as, some of her delicious marmalade. All of the girls wrote me notes which I found in my bag later, and Emmi handed me her phone number with tears in her eyes insisting that I call anytime and better come back to visit. How could one not adore such a warm and welcoming family? After hugging them all and slipping notes into each of their hands, I reassured them I would at least make a special trip back for Mari’s Quince (15^th birthday) in May and then my group and I all had to leave. Our last stop in the heart of Caacupe was SUGU; a German owned and run Swiss café. The owner spoke fluent Spanish, French, English and obviously German. He served us a full 3-course meal: salad, entrée, and dessert for 20 G’s (Guarani is also the name of PY money). This cost converts to about 5 U.S. bucks therefore well worth the price and the walk. The salad was drizzled with vinaigrette dressing, the pasta had fresh basil atop, and the dessert was delightful peach sorbet. The restaurant décor and not to mention the meal itself had us all forgetting what country we were in. All in all, it was a great trip, amazing people, and a fantastic meal to end on, wouldn’t you agree?

Love Notes from my adoring (and adorable)  host sisters